Before manufacturing can begin we gather ideas and create new designs over the course of four months. We start by sketching out rough designs and progressively moving these onto computer generated images with details of sizes, material types, constructions and accessories. Once these designs are fixed we create shapes from various boards or cardboards to gain an idea of how the bags are going to be constructed. These bag patterns are then moved on as outlines for the first leather pieces to be cut. After several samples are made and we are happy with the final cuttings we then eventually cut metal stencils which cut out the smaller leather pieces in a press. The larger pieces are always cut by hand as it is important to select the best sections of the hides and cut with precision. Once the outer leather pieces are cut the next step is the linings. We use various materials depending on the bag with the lining sometimes attached tightly on the inside and others loose and flexible.

Before the bag can be assembled, it needs to go through a selection of preparations. Certain parts need to be trimmed or thinned depending on the parts function. Another process that needs to take place at this point is the embossing work which is either hammered by hand or embossed with a fire heated stencil. After the sections are ready, the dying process can begin. The first process is for the leather to get dipped in dye and then dried in the sun. Once completely dry the pieces are sorted and organised together with the appropriate accessories. There is a huge assortment of colours, sizes and styles of clips, buckles, feet, zips, rivets, eyelets and D-rings and it is very important the correct ones are used for each particular design.

The more experienced bag makers have a small selection of styles they are responsible for and their assistants help them with each part of the construction process. They work alongside the machinist, who does the sewing. The bag maker knows the order and how each step of the construction has to be done. The bag has to be moulded, hammered into shape and held before being stitched. Some bags have over 40 individual pieces and each one needs to be stitched in the correct order. Linings, paddings and strengthening boards have to be installed along with interior pockets and labels.

There are several finishing touches after the construction process. Another staining and the sealing process is completed and a polish is applied to various leathers for a smooth finish. Over 15 people are involved in the process of constructing a single bag from start to finish and everyone is well trained and extremely proficient at their own jobs. Trainees are taught about each process and assistants work alongside their more experienced colleagues for an average of six months before being promoted to work at their own station. New processes and equipment are being incorporated in order to improve the whole system. It’s an interesting mix of experience and traditional tools combined with some modern techniques and new machinery.